Fenchurch: A Culinary Masterclass Overlooking London

By Paul Joseph

Perched at the top of the Walkie Talkie building in the heart of London, Fenchurch Restaurant Bar & Grill became the latest addition to the capital’s sky-high dining scene when it opened earlier this year.

Overlooking a verdant indoor garden and bar on the floor below and with spectacular views across the London skyline – albeit from one side of the dining room only – Fenchurch delivers a dramatic setting in which to enjoy its contemporary British menu specialising in oysters, fish, crustaceans and grilled meats.

An illuminated seafood and cocktail bar, leather banquette seating, and a private dining room for up to 16 guests housing liquid crystal displays create an elegant ambience, while service is formal but genial.

Stand-out dishes during our July visit included a smooth and creamy burrito served with peach, grapefruit fennel and a beautifully presented smoked eel with avocado, air dried duck and horseradish.

A whole dover sole on the bone lived up to its reputation as the king of the fish world, with the fresh, white meat lifting away in solid chunks, while shrimps and samphire adding extra notes of the sea.

Goodwood Estate lamb with peas, gem lettuce an charlottes was another hit, cooked perfectly pink and tender, with the simple accompaniments affording it room to shine.

For dessert, a raspberry soufflé with whiskey and oats ice cream was ultra-light and decadent, with the whisky delivering g a pleasing kick and the oats adding crunchy texture.

Glazed peanut and chocolate bar with cherries and banana yogurt ice cream was sensational, combining classic American diner fare with a Cordon Bleu flourish.

It all amounted to an exceptional meal that would have received top marks had it been served in a dingy basement. The fact that it can be experienced in one of the London’s most visually striking locations should merely be one more reason to visit.

By Paul Joseph